The arrival of Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy in 2017 marked a significant turning point for the storied French fashion house. Her debut menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2018, unveiled amidst the buzz of Paris Fashion Week, was eagerly anticipated, representing a fresh perspective on the brand's established identity. This collection wasn't simply a continuation of previous trends; it was a deliberate reimagining, a statement of intent that subtly yet powerfully shifted the brand's aesthetic direction while retaining its core elegance and sophistication. The Givenchy Men SS18 show, a pivotal moment in the brand's history and a significant event within the wider context of Paris Fashion Week, offered a compelling glimpse into Keller's vision for the future of Givenchy menswear.
The Givenchy SS18 Show: A Study in Subtle Revolution
The presentation itself was a carefully orchestrated affair, reflecting the considered approach evident in the clothing itself. Unlike some overtly theatrical runway shows, the Givenchy SS18 presentation prioritized the garments, allowing their inherent qualities to shine. The setting, the styling, and even the music all contributed to a cohesive narrative, one that underscored the collection's blend of classic tailoring with contemporary edge. The models, cast with a diverse range of physiques and ethnicities, further emphasized the inclusive nature of Keller's vision, a departure from some of the more homogenous castings seen in previous seasons.
The collection itself was characterized by a refined minimalism. Gone were the overly ostentatious elements sometimes associated with the brand's past. Instead, Keller focused on clean lines, impeccable tailoring, and a muted palette. This wasn't minimalism for minimalism's sake; it was a strategic move to highlight the quality of the fabrics, the precision of the construction, and the overall sophistication of the silhouettes. The emphasis on craftsmanship was evident in the meticulously tailored suits, the perfectly draped shirts, and the exquisitely detailed outerwear.
Neutral tones dominated the collection, with shades of beige, grey, navy, and black forming the foundation. These were occasionally punctuated by pops of brighter color, most notably a vibrant red that appeared in select pieces, creating a subtle yet impactful contrast. The fabrics themselves were luxurious and high-quality, ranging from crisp cotton poplin and fine wool to supple leather and lightweight silk. The attention to detail was impeccable, reflecting a dedication to quality that is synonymous with the Givenchy brand.
Key pieces included impeccably tailored suits in various cuts, from classic single-breasted styles to more relaxed, contemporary fits. The outerwear was equally impressive, featuring trench coats, bomber jackets, and blousons crafted from premium materials and showcasing impeccable construction. Knitwear played a significant role, with finely crafted sweaters and cardigans providing a softer counterpoint to the sharper lines of the tailored pieces. Accessories, though understated, were equally impactful, with sleek leather bags and meticulously crafted footwear completing the overall look.
PFW: Givenchy SS18 – A Contextual Analysis
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